Fabric.



UNITED STATES PA E T OFFIQE WI-Lnin -s; Nu'rrnm OFLSANFORQJMAINE, nssrsnoairo eoonn-nn-wonsmnn coivrrmw, on sAnroRn-MAINE, A CORPORATION our/rams.

" FA RIC;

No Drawing.

To azz wiwma m -m a Sanford, county ofYork, State of Maine,

have invented an Improvement in Fabric, of

which the "following descript'ionis a specip This? invention relates to fabrics having embodied-'- therein either as 'thevvarp or the weft thread a yarnmade partially 'at least-- from'the fleeceof tlie Angoragoat", As'is well knovvmithe Angora fleece contains fibers of'two. different characters, that is, a white fiber 'with'comparatively'little' life and which will not take: dye" readily, and'another fiber with considerable life 7 which will readily take the" dye. The "first n'amed white fiber, and that which will not readilytake the dye,-

is known to the" trade -as"kemp' and-*will be thushereinafterreferred'to. These'kemp fibers "are usually" rather coarse fibers somewhat larger thanthe other fibers which take thedye' readily."

A yarn Whic Angora fleece containing the kemp fibers is more or less streaky in appearance even when it is undyed because the kemp fibers are of such a character that they are readily distinguished from the other fibers of the arn.

y It has heretofore been proposed to manufacture an undyed fabric, the weft yarn of which has the so-called kemp fibers therein and is woven into the cloth in its natural color. A cloth made in this way is illustrated and described in my Patent No. 1,131,259, March 9, 1915, said cloth having a variegated Warp thread, the purpose of Which is to break up the streaky appearance which would naturally result from the presence of the kemp fibers in the Weft yarn.

The natural color of the mohair fleece is a very light tan, almost white, and a cloth made from the mohair yarn in its natural color will consequently be almost white. Cloth of this nature has proved to be extremely acceptable for the manufacture of summer clothing, but one objection to a light-colored or white cloth for summer suits is that it- Specification Letters riatent.

' Applieation filed lvlarch 28,1916. Serial No. 7,322.

h is spun from tops from'the" PatentedJ all 1', 19 i 8,

provide ia mohai r fabri'c' o'f the general type described In my abovementioned patent and which has all the advantages thereof so far as coolness-and wearingfqualiti'esiareeoncerned, but which can be made of a considerf ably darker shadet'han thenaturalzcolor of the Angora 'fleece without developing any warp-pr the fabricQ butpreferably for the therein and a fibrous materialfofadarkerfj color. l thus' mixing the darker'material f the completed fabric. Theproportionof darkermateria'l which can beused" depends upon the nature thereof and its color. A

1 less" quantity of a" relatively dark materiah can be'used than of a relatively-lighter material. Themixing of the darker material with the mohair material tends to bring the kemp fibers into view by contrast and thus augments the streaky appearance of the yarn and of the fabric made therefrom due to the presence of the kemp fibers. A certain proportion of darker material, however,can be successfully used without making the kemp fibers prominently visible. Any suitable material may be used for thus darkening the shade of the mohair yarn, such, for instance, as silk, alpaca, wool, cotton, camels hair, etc. The darkening or coloring material of whatever type or shade may be mixed or twisted, or otherwise incorporated with the mohair or Angora fleece fibers before or during the combing operation, or in any of the operations of manufacture up to and including the operation of spinning, so that Whenever the yarn is finally spun from the roving it is made partly from the fleece of the Angora goat containing the kemp fibers, and

artly from the material used for darkening the shade thereof. The yarn thus formed is used for either the weft or the warp thread of the fabric t( be made, but will preferably be used for thevveft. Forthe warp, I- propose to use a yarn preferably having a variegated coloring throughout its length as described in the before-mentioned patent. This can be provided for by twisting. together two strands of different color. The character of the two colors which are used in the two strands of the warp thread will vary somewhat, depending on the character of the cloth to be made. The purpose of the variegated warp thread is to break up the streaky appearance due to the presence of the kemp fibers in the weft thread, all as set forth in the above-mentioned patent.

The darkening of the shade or coloring of the weft thread by the use of'a certain proportion of the fibrous material of darker shade tends to make the kempvfibers more prominentby contrast, but a certain proportion of this dark fibrous material mixed with theAngora tops in the formation oftheweft thread will not show up the kemp fibers to such an extent as to produce a streakiness that is not broken up by the variegated warp thread The proportion of darkening fibrous material which. is used in the weft thread, therefore,must have relation to the shade of such fibrous material and must alwaysbe so proportioned that the presen'ce of this darker fibrous material in the weft yarn does not cause thekemp fibers to become prominentby contrast. The presence of this darkening fibrous material in the weft yarn gives a darker tone or shade to the fabric. which is a desirable feature, but by. properly proportioning the amount which is used, the undewithout, however, causing the kemp fibers to become prominent by contrast.

I claim: A woven fabr1c compr smg nterwoven warp and weft threads, the weft threadibeing made by spinning together un dyed fibers of the Angora fieeceincluding the kemp fibers thereof and a fibrous material 7 having a darker shade than said Angora fleece fibers, and the warp being a variegated thread which operates to break up the Streaky appearance due to the presenceaof the kemp fibers in the weft, the amount of fibrous material vof darker shade which is.

used. in the weft having such relation to the variegated warp and the keinp fibers as, to

appreciably darken the shade of; the fabric without, however destroying the eflect of the variegated warp in breaking up the Y streaky appearance due to thepresence the 'kemp fibers.

name to this specification.

In testimony whereof, have signed WILLIAM s. NUTTER Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents eac'li by addressing t c mm hin I V i I A Washington, D, (1, .t I .i a 

